WILD LOVE FROM KATHMANDU
We’ve been in Kathmandu for a week now.
I’m wildly in love.
More accurately I’m swarmed with love in Nepal. It’s everywhere.
It rides on waves and transmits through electric sparks of sheer presence and authenticity.
The hearts of Nepali people are disarmingly wide-open, genuine and affectionate.
The place where everyone you meet instantly feels like family.
The bond is so fierce that it crosses cultures, language barriers and withstands decades of time and space.
My heart is melting … as a result of kindness from these beings:
1. Lama Kalsang
The Abbot of the Sangye Chöling Monastery in Kathmandu and a long-time close friend of Lisa’s, Lama Kalsang is soft, gentle, wildly compassionate, quietly skillful and powerfully peaceful.
Sitting with him is like resting in a spacious, warm river – and then everything falls still.
Colors get brighter, textures become more vivid and swirling thoughts dissolve into simple vibrancy.
Everyone around calls Lama Kalsang: “Me-me” (may-may), which means Grandfather.
He is strong, fierce and clear.
Every moment in his presence, even if nothing is spoken, feels like an instruction.
2. The Monks at the Monastery
I’ll single two out:
Lama Samdup ~ one of the first monks we got close to when we came here three years ago. He was in charge of preparing all of Lama Kalsang’s meals & snacks, along with attending to any foreign or local guests of Lama Kalsang (or anyone who came looking for blessings, which happens all day long, every day).
Lama Samdup is meticulous about his cooking and takes great pride in local Nepali dishes. Anytime he serves coffee or tea, it’s like a ceremony. All the muscles in your body relax like melting butter, simply watching him prepare the hot drinks. After multiple decades of devotion to meditation practice, he is 100% present and aware in each micro-moment. His actions flow right from the heart.
Lama Samdup graciously picked us up from the airport. Our flight was delayed on the tarmac in Bangkok; I had fallen asleep and didn’t tell him we’d be late.
At the airport, I saw he’d been waiting over an hour for us - I felt a pang of anxiety. Then Samdup texted me saying:
I’m here. ❤️🙏
With those simple words I felt the impact of his heart reassuring my nervy Western mind that in the end – all was ok. We arrived, and he was here.
All my stress melted away. His unspoken words: You’re all here, I’m here, that’s what’s important, nothing more.
I could feel his heart through this simple text & it had a visceral impact on my body.
Several days later we ran into him in the monastery courtyard; he invited us to his room for a coffee. He ceremoniously poured into our cups and offered cookies and saffron tea. We asked him about the recent political overthrow of the capital and he shared his optimism and patient, long-term view.
Three years ago when we were here, we butted heads about what foods would be beneficial/not beneficial for Lama Kalsang’s health. I feel that clash brought us closer together in the long run. It was representative of how much we all love Lama Kalsang. Any apparent discord transformed into mutual appreciation that everyone fiercely wants the best for this precious teacher.
We don’t see him every day anymore, because he no longer cooks for Lama Kalsang. His specialty is filling statues with millions of mantras and precious relics to activate the healing capacity of the statues as they are consecrated. But every few days he checks in on us.
Rinzen is the new monk currently tasked with preparing meals for Lama Kalsang (and tending to students and guests).
He is unabashedly cheerful, funny and overjoyed to be of service in any way possible. He appears with gusto, chatters joyfully and makes funny faces when he can’t think of the words in English (he’s fluent in Nepali and Tibetan – and his English is great too). He’s relentless about making sure we’ve had something to eat/drink and won’t take no for an answer.
3. The Nuns at Marpa Gompa
A five minute walk from where we’re staying at the monastery guest house, there are ten nuns living in the courtyard around the Marpa Gompa. This building is over 1000 years old, having hosted several famous and powerful teachers instrumental in the world of Tibetan Buddhism.
Three years ago when we were here, the Ani’s, or nuns, taught us how to do Green Tara Puja.
We did this practice consecutively for the last three years, and because it particularly promotes fearlessness, removes obstacles and provides protection, we shared this practice to raise donations for families struggling in calamities in the U.S.: floods in North Carolina & Texas, fires in California and a hurricane in Florida.
When we first learned the practice with the nuns, we struggled with the Green Tara text. At times I felt I’d never be able to do the practice properly.
Now, we join the Buddhist nuns every morning for practice and I’m proud to say we’re totally keeping up (ok, they’re probably slowing down a liiittle bit for us, but we’re managing pretty well).
Ani Thubten Ösal is a ball of joy. When Taylor saw Ani for the first time this trip, (happy) tears streamed down her face. Her vibrancy is unmatched and her compassion for people and dogs is tremendous.
Ani Sampten (above on the right) is the oldest of the crew. She just turned 70 years old. She has ears like Sakyamuni Buddha and her compassion has an earthy, stable quality to it.
New to us is Ani Tenzin Palmo, a visiting nun this year. She & I have studied under some of the same teachers and she’s been to Arizona before! She’s young, sharp and her gaze is penetrating. Her singing voice is incredibly melodious and makes tears stream down my face.
Ani Thubten is Lama Kalsang’s permanent attendant. By his side 24/7, Ani is a stabilizing, strengthening force at the monastery. The only female allowed permanently at the monastery, Ani Thubten is a mountain of compassion. Her eyes make you feel sparkly all over and her laugh is infectious.
4. Gandarva Musicians
We were strolling down the street in Thamel when we heard beautiful, enchanting music. We often create playlists when we travel, so we b-lined into a courtyard with Shazam at the ready to pull the song.
To our surprise and delight, it was actually LIVE musicians! Mesmerized by the exotic folk instruments and singing, we stayed through several songs. The musicians hammed it up, laughing joyously and enjoying all of us grooving to their music.
Making eye contact with each musician felt like turning on a lightbulb, a mutually energizing electric spark. After a handful of songs, we walked away lighthearted and giddy.
A few days later, Taylor and I were back in Thamel. We found ourselves at the same courtyard and our musician friends were gearing up to play. We parked ourselves at a front-row table for an exquisite concert!
As we met eyes with each of the musicians it was almost disconcerting how open and genuine their hearts’ energy was. Holding their eye contact forced our hearts to strip away various protective layers and break open into a wilder, more open way of being.
In between each set, the musicians took turns teaching us about their music as a form of meditation, culture, expression, and even invited us to learn a special Diwali dance for the festivities next week. We were invited to join their families, meet their wives, get dance instructions and enjoy the festival of lights and flowers.
5. The Orchid Experts
I did some research online upon arrival to Kathmandu and within the first 24 hours, I miraculously found my way down a synchronistic maze with other humans who love plants just as much as I do.
Mehendra Thapa is a young man in his 20’s who has always loved all plants. Five years ago he discovered his passion specifically for orchids. He dove head first into conservation and now collects native Nepali orchid seeds, nurtures them for two years with a 50/50 survival rate, until they are ready to be placed back out in the wild in the jungle.
His work is particularly important because in Nepal, there is a voracious illegal trade (smuggling) of orchids for the skin care and medical industries in China.
I asked Mahendra if he’d meet me for coffee and was amazed to meet someone like him on only Day 3 after arriving in Kathmandu.
I also connected with seasoned orchid expert Bhakta Bahadur Raskoti, who promptly couriered to me: two Native Nepali orchid books that he’d authored, and put together a lengthy, detailed itinerary for hunting wild orchids in the Nepali jungle.
I feel so blessed and utterly lucky to meet these fellow plant lovers who deeply love Mother Earth and work tirelessly to preserve Nepal’s botanical treasures.
Stay tuned for our adventures together!
6. Dr. Dhindup Tsering
We met the young Tibetan doctor, Dr. Dhindup, during our last trip when we were all sick with respiratory congestion, deep coughs and fevers; we’d visited his consultation office and Tibetan herbal pharmacy several times.
We were inspired by his volunteer work bringing Tibetan herbal medicine to remote mountain villages. Villagers show up in droves and he treats as many patients as he can fit in a few days.
I’d already felt a kinship with him, and seeing him again intensified our alignment – the same unspoken language and same intention with our work.
His stories of collecting wild herbs had us on the edge of our seats.
7. Dogs, dogs, dogs
I LOVE the dogs in Nepal! They’re friendly, loving and extremely affectionate.
Sometimes we’ll be walking down the street and I’ll see a sweet-looking dog and make some kind of affectionate noise – then the dog comes running over to get some love…
And then another comes over, and pretty soon I’m surrounded by dogs.
People often say that dogs are like the people they protect, and I believe that the personality of dogs in Nepal is like that of the Nepali people: gentle, open-hearted and super present.
Very soon, Taylor and I will find ourselves in the jungles of Nepal to hunt for special flowers, with 1 or two orchid experts to help guide us!
I can already foresee the qualities these Nepali flowers will elicit from all of us – and the effect their essences will have on us.
My prediction is that it will be a reflection of our experience of living here ~ a way of being that is wildly open-hearted and freeing. Grasping attachment dissolves and protective layers around the heart vanish.
To follow our travels on Instagram ~ check out our highlights on @lotuswei and @iamkatiehess.
Want to hear Lisa’s story about how she met Lama Kalsang almost 35 years ago? Which is synchronistically responsible for everything we’re experiencing now – click here.
Love & Nepali flowers,
Katie
